Diane Parente, AICI, CIP

What is the Right Blazer for you?

No matter which style you choose, a great blazer can make all the difference to a diverse and versatile wardrobe. Do not let the label of blazer fool you into thinking that they are all the same. Though by definition a blazer requires certain consistent standards to its inherent design, there are many subtle variables that can alter the style and fit of each individual blazer design.

The fit of a blazer can range from a tailored look to something almost slouchy. Some are now even made of knits! The more seaming and structure found in the construction, the more body conscious the fit will be. Because the fabrics are sturdy, a fitted blazer can create elegant lines on the body, hide a multitude of sins, and be very figure flattering. On the opposite end, a blazer with minimal seaming and construction, will hang comfortably on the body without betraying what lies underneath. When it comes to fit, pay close attention to the blazer’s material, which can include everything from sweater knits to stretchy blend fabrics.

In terms of fit, the standard blazer usually has a classic shape, which means it follows the lines of the body loosely, without bringing attention to or away from any one part. On the other hand, the shrunken blazer generally has a much more tailored fit, emphasizing your curves, and can be figure flattering. The shrunken blazer is probably the most diverse in character of these three popular styles, but with its shorter hemline and fitted quality, it does not work for everyone. The boyfriend blazer is the opposite, with a loose or boxy look. The boyfriend blazer creates an attractive silhouette for someone wishing to move attention away from the midsection or waist.

All three of these blazer styles can be found in a business suit quality made of refined fabrics, to a casual knit piece that works great with jeans. Besides the obvious variations in color and materials used, there are many different design elements that will affect both the fit and the character of the garment:

• The length of lapel and the number of buttons on the blazer will also affect fit. A one-button blazer is going to lengthen the neckline, revealing more bust, and create a defined waistline. A four-button blazer will have a wider, shorter collar and very little neckline. Four buttons will cover up the bust and torso completely. Two- and three-button blazers will create effects between the extremes.
• The length of sleeve and hem will affect the style, as will the handling in the shoulder. The length of a hem will affect body proportions as well as cover up or show off the hips and rear. Other influential design elements include pockets, peplums, and variations in seam lines.
• Collar treatment, including its length and width, is another important element of blazer design. These days, the collar can be anything from the classic notched style, to a softer shawl style. Collars can be small in scale, to dramatic and oversized.

If you find the idea of selecting a blazer daunting, you may want to ask a professional to help you choose the one that will work best for you.

How do you select your blazer?

What are the different styles?

The white shirt is not only a classic piece for your wardrobe, it is an anchor that many looks can be built around, plus it has the versatility to work with almost anything else in the closet.  The right white blouse can also be incredibly flattering to your silhouette.  It’s just a matter of finding the white shirt that is right for you.

There are many different styles out there and each one is going to work for a different body and style personality.  But nothing says style like a great White Shirt.  Be sure to watch for three upcoming chapters on “The White Shirt – a Staple.”

Crisp  Clean Classic  Chic

Theory	T Tahari
Kenneth Cole New York	Ravel Wrap
Splendid Pullover Tunic	Finely “Laurent”
XCVI Wearables	ECI Ruffle

The white shirt has become such an important garment that there are now many styles to choose from, and it can be overwhelming to find the perfect one for you!

• There is the classic menswear-inspired shirt; which can go from something very fitted with well-placed darts and seams, to something more relaxed. This blouse is structured and collared. It suits a person with a more conventional style, but is also the most diverse type of white shirt. The range of fit and design varies greatly with this classic shirt, so you still must be selective to find the right one for you. There are some beautiful classic white shirts out there now, so well designed and constructed that they can be worn as a jacket (a welcome alternative in warmer weather).
• The tunic is longer at the hem and designed to be worn out so it flows. It can still look tailored, but is generally more casual in feel and works well for someone with a dramatic or creative style. The tunic may be constructed with a variety of fabrics, including jersey and lace, and is often used as an easy throw-over-anything piece. It is considered a comfortable and stylish garment. The tunic travels well, especially if it is made of low-maintenance material. A structured tunic also works well as a jacket alternative over a colorful tank or T.
• The wrap is another popular style of white shirt. It is body conscious and usually very flattering. Sometimes this style can be a bit too revealing, so make sure it falls across your bust line appropriately. The wrap appeals to the woman with an alluring or elegant style. The wrap style is often found in dressier materials that are appropriate for evening wear and creates a sophisticated cocktail look when paired with dress slacks or an evening skirt. The wrap blouse can also create a business impression when properly fastened or worn with a camisole underneath, and is terrific with the right suit. Another take on the wrap-style white shirt is the cinched blouse, which emphasizes the waist with a belt and is a great addition to the professional wardrobe.

Keep in mind that all three of these styles vary tremendously with different collars, sleeve lengths, cuffs, hem details, and closures.  This is a lot to think about, so if you feel overwhelmed, you may want to get a professional to help you.

THE WHITE SHIRT – A STAPLE
Which Style of White Shirt Has the Most Appeal to You?

What is the right white shirt for you?

How do you find the white shirt that is most flattering and appropriate for your body and that best expresses your style?  There are many different elements to the design and style of a white shirt.  To wade through them, you must first know the kind of situations where you would be wearing the white shirt.  Next, take your body type into account to find the style that suits you best.  Finally, consider the details on the garment itself.

The Design Elements:

• The collar, in particular, should be proportionate to your body and face. Think about the size of the collar in relation to your facial features and shoulders, the width of the collar compared to your jawline and neck length. In general, a square face can wear a wider collar, and an oblong face works better with a narrow collar. In terms of style, the more angular the collar shape, the more dramatic it will be; the softer the shape, the more feminine the style will be.
• Sleeves are an important design element, especially now. A sleeve with a bit of volume at the shoulder can create added stature, but too much volume can make you look like a football player or simply cartoonish. Extra volume at the bottom of the sleeve will add width to the hips – good for someone with narrow hips, but too much, perhaps, for a fuller- hipped individual. You should also consider the length of the sleeve, as it can affect the garment’s wearability.
• The simpler the design, the more versatile the garment will be in your wardrobe. Extra “stuff” can also be distracting, so think carefully about all those ruffles, puffs, pockets, buttons, and bows. They may be cute, fun, or trendy, but how practical will they be for your wardrobe?
• Ruching, where the material is gathered together to create a rippled effect, is generally an amazing design element used to hide unflattering curves. Occasionally, however, ruching can work against you, so try the shirt on before you purchase it, or at least before wearing it to a must-look-great occasion!
• Check the seams and darts on a garment; the more there are, the more fitted it will be. If you want an easier fit, go for less construction. For a snug shape, choose a garment with more structure. Vertical seams tend to be more flattering than horizontal ones. Be careful of darts: if they fall at the correct curves on your body they are terrific, but if they fall at the wrong place they will make you appear awkward.

There are many elements to consider when choosing a white shirt.  The right one will be the most useful garment in your wardrobe; the wrong one can pull your style down.  If your wardrobe lacks a great white shirt, but you are feeling overwhelmed, think about getting professional advice – it can really help.